SewMichelle

In the Hoop Trick or Treat Bag

Michelle Dorsey — 2009-09-04T22:45:20-05:00

In the Hoop Trick or Treat Bag

Trick or Treat.jef
Trick or Treat.pes
Boo to You!.jef
Boo to You!.pes

Instructions
B hoop
Tear away stabilizer
2 pieces of 5 x 10 fabric
4 x 4 piece of clear vinyl – medium to heavy weight
Embroidery thread
Appliqué scissors work best
Pinking shears

Hoop a piece of tear away stabilizer in the B (5 x 7) hoop.
Stitch first color ~ it is a placement guide.
Fold one piece of fabric in half wrong sides together and align the folded end at the top of the placement stitches.
Stitch second color to hold fabric in place.
Next color is for the lettering.
Cut your jump threads and stitch the next placement guide for the vinyl.
Cut the fabric out of the circle but not the stabilizer. Place the vinyl on top of the fabric and stitch the next color. This will hold down the vinyl.
Cut around the vinyl but be careful not to cut through the stitches. Next step is the satin stitch around the vinyl.
After the satin stitch is completed, place the folded fabric on top of the project lining it up with the other fabric. Stitch final color.
Take hoop off machine and pull away stabilizer and use pinking shears to cut the excess fabric to about ¼” and clip the corners.

Turn the bag inside out and you are done.

This size bag will hold fun size treats ~ perfect for friends, family and co-workers.

In the Hoop Candy Bar Cover

Michelle Dorsey — 2008-01-05T10:30:26-06:00

In the Hoop
Candy Bar Cover

Supplies:

2 pieces of 8 x 8 fabric (can be the same fabric or coordinating)
8 x 8 piece of batting (warm and natural preferred)
embroidery thread
matching bobbin
lace for trim
tear away stabilizer
Candy Bar Cover Design.jef or Candy Bar Cover Design.pes

Instructions:

Hoop tear away stabilizer in B hoop
Lay fabric right side up with the piece of batting under in middle of hoop.

1. Outline of cover. After stitched take hoop off machine and trim as close to stitching taking care not to cut fabric.
2. Lettering
3. Change bobbin to matching bobbin thread and attach the other piece of fabric right side up to the back of the hoop. Spray with KK2000 to hold in place. Stitch. Trim fabric as you did in step 1.
4. Satin stitch to cover raw edges.
5. Placement for lace. Attach lace on front and back of the hoop lining up with the stitched lines. Spray lines with KK2000 to hold lace in place.
6. Stitching to hold lace in place.
7. Placement for Velcro. Cut a piece of each side the size of the stitched area. Attach one piece on the top (north side) fabric and one on the bottom (back of the hoop). Spray area with KK2000 to hold Velcro in place. (Wonder tape or fabric glue works great.)
8. Stitching to hold Velcro in place.

You’re done!! Enjoy!

Oven Mitt

Michelle Dorsey — 2007-08-25T15:16:41-05:00

Embroidered Oven Mitt Instructions

 1⁄4 yard of pre-quilted fabric
 1⁄4 yard of ironing board fabric (preferably quilted)
 1⁄2 yard of flannel
 1⁄4 yard of Insul-Bright lining
 1⁄2 inch wide pre-packaged binding or bring a 15”
square of fabric to match and I can show you how to
make continuous bias binding --- super easy and good
to know.
 An embroidery design that can be stitched out in about
15 to 20 minutes (so you can go home with a finished
project)
 Sticky Stabilizer
 Clothsetter and Hoops
 Thread to match or invisible thread
 Embroidery threads for design
 Normal sewing notions

Instructions

Fold your pre-quilted fabric in half and trace (or pin) the pattern and cut 2
mitts out. Or you may prefer to make only one mitt tonight so lay your
fabric flat (unfolded) to cut only one out. Mark your mitt with cross hairs to
position the embroidery in the center or where ever you would like it placed.
Stitch your design.

While design is stitching cut out other pieces needed to finish mitt using the
same method as you did on the pre-quilted fabric. For two mitts you will
need a pair cut out of the Teflon, (ironing board material) Insul-Bright and a
pair out of flannel. If only making one mitt cut only one of everything
except the flannel.

Assemble the mitt:
Lay the Teflon fabric right side up. Lay the embroidered fabric right side
down on the Teflon material. Lay the Insul-bright on top of that and pin the
layers in place and stitch using a 1⁄4 inch seam. Clip corners to help with
curves.
Turn the mitt right side out.
Next ~ sew your flannel pieces (right sides together) using a 1⁄4 seam. Trim
close to the stitching to remove excess fabric. Clip corners.
Slip the flannel sewn piece into the assembled mitt and pin together on raw
edges. Stitch them together using a 1⁄4 inch.
Bind the edges with your bias binding and you are done!!

NOTE: You could make this bigger for a man’s mitt by enlarging the pattern on the copy
machine or just add about 1⁄2 to 3⁄4 inch all around the edges.

 1⁄4 yard of pre-quilted fabric
 1⁄4 yard of ironing board fabric (preferably quilted)
 1⁄2 yard of flannel
 1⁄4 yard of Insul-Bright lining
 1⁄2 inch wide pre-packaged binding or bring a 15”
square of fabric to match and I can show you how to
make continuous bias binding --- super easy and good
to know.
 An embroidery design that can be stitched out in about
15 to 20 minutes (so you can go home with a finished
project)
 Sticky Stabilizer
 Clothsetter and Hoops
 Thread to match or invisible thread
 Embroidery threads for design
 Normal sewing notions

Instructions

Fold your pre-quilted fabric in half and trace (or pin) the pattern and cut 2
mitts out. Or you may prefer to make only one mitt tonight so lay your
fabric flat (unfolded) to cut only one out. Mark your mitt with cross hairs to
position the embroidery in the center or where ever you would like it placed.
Stitch your design.

While design is stitching cut out other pieces needed to finish mitt using the
same method as you did on the pre-quilted fabric. For two mitts you will
need a pair cut out of the Teflon, (ironing board material) Insul-Bright and a
pair out of flannel. If only making one mitt cut only one of everything
except the flannel.

Assemble the mitt:
Lay the Teflon fabric right side up. Lay the embroidered fabric right side
down on the Teflon material. Lay the Insul-bright on top of that and pin the
layers in place and stitch using a 1⁄4 inch seam. Clip corners to help with
curves.
Turn the mitt right side out.
Next ~ sew your flannel pieces (right sides together) using a 1⁄4 seam. Trim
close to the stitching to remove excess fabric. Clip corners.
Slip the flannel sewn piece into the assembled mitt and pin together on raw
edges. Stitch them together using a 1⁄4 inch.
Bind the edges with your bias binding and you are done!!

NOTE: You could make this bigger for a man’s mitt by enlarging the pattern on the copy
machine or just add about 1⁄2 to 3⁄4 inch all around the edges.

Sewing Notions Bag

Michelle Dorsey — 2007-08-25T15:13:41-05:00

Sewing Notions Zipper Bag

Pre-quilted material cut 12 x 24
Coordinating lining cut 12 x 24
2 1⁄2 yards of double fold binding or enough fabric to make binding (I can show you how
to make continuous bias binding)
Double sided Fusible web 12 x 24
Teflon pressing sheet (if you have one please bring it – I will bring mine to share)
4 gallon-size zipper freezer bags
4 quart-size zipper freezer bags
4 zipper sandwich bags
2 x 13 grosgrain ribbon to coordinate with lining
1⁄2 yd Yarn or Embroidery floss to wrap around button
3⁄4” button

Prep work:

Using piece of pre-quilted material, measure about 3 1⁄2 inches from the bottom of the 12”
side and find your center to put your embroidery design. Please go ahead and stitch your
design by hooping sticky stabilizer and laying your fabric on top of it. I would suggest
using some tear away or cutaway under the fabric to avoid puckering. Having this done
before class will ensure your project will be completed during class.

While the machine is stitching the embroidery design you can get your lining ready to
fuse to the body of fabric. Place one side of the fusible web on the back of the lining
piece. Lay the non-stick pressing sheet on top of the web before pressing. Set aside.

After embroidery is complete tear or cut excess stabilizer away from the fabric. Take the
lining fabric with the attached fusible stabilizer and attach it to the wrong side of the
embroidered fabric. I would recommend using the pressing sheet again just to be sure
you don’t get any residue on the iron.

Attach the double folded binding to the project mitering corners.

Fold the non-embroidered end of the bag to the wrong side 7” from the end and steam
press firmly to set the crease. Fold again 9” from the same end and press to make a
second crease.

Gather your zippered freezer bags and make two separate groups each consisting of 4
gallon, 4 quart and 4 sandwich size bags. Arrange each group with the largest bags on

Page 2

the bottom and the next size on top of that. Stagger the openings of the bags as much as
possible.

Lay the first group of freezer bags on the lining with the bag tops toward the embroidered
end. The top of the largest bag should be about 8” above the nearest crease. The bottom
of the bags will extend pass the crease. Use tape to hold the bags in place.

Lay the second group of freezer bags on the lining with their tops at the other end
(without embroidery). The bags will overlap the other group. Use tape to secure them as
well.

Use a marker to draw a line across the freezer bags down the center. Sew a seam down
this line to secure the bags. Make sure you stitch through all layers.

Cut the ends of the freezer bags off taking care not to cut the upper portions. It may be
necessary to fold the bags to trim all of them.

Take your ribbon and press or fold each side about 1⁄4 inch to hide the raw edges. Then
lay the ribbon between the creases and on top of the end of the bags. This will hide the
edges and give it a nice look. Stitch on each side of the ribbon to secure it in place.

Sew your button on the front of the bag without the embroidery. Center it about 6” from
the end. Cut the yarn approximately 12 inches. Fold one edge several times and lay it
just above the binding below the embroidery. With matching thread and using a zigzag
stitch (satin stitch) secure the yarn to the front of the notion bag. Make a knot at the other
end of the yarn leaving about an inch to form a pleasing tassel end. Untwist the yarn and
brush it with your fingers. Wrap the yarn around the button to hold the notion’s bag
closed.

You are done!! Enjoy!

Pillowcase

Michelle Dorsey — 2007-08-25T15:07:09-05:00

Michelle’s Pillowcase Project

3/4 yard fabric for the body of the pillow
1⁄2 yard fabric for cuff (make sure your embroidery will show up on fabric)
1⁄4 yard coordinating fabric for trim
Embroidery design of your choice
Embroidery Hoop and Clothsetter
Embroidery threads
Sticky stabilizer
Cotton thread (to match) for assembling pillowcase
Normal sewing notions

Cutting:

Cut 27 x 41 from fabric for the body of the pillowcase
Cut 14 x 41 from cuff fabric
Cut 3 x 41 from trim fabric

Press trim and cuff pieces of fabric in half. Set trim fabric to the side and get cuff
fabric ready for embroidery.

Embroider design on fabric

Assemble pillowcase:

Lay embroidered cuff fabric (unfolded) flat with right sides facing up. Pin trim
fabric folded in half to raw edge of cuff fabric and stitch together with matching
cotton thread. Then lay they joined pieces of fabrics flat and take remaining
fabric and pin it to the cuff fabric with right sides together. (Wrong side of body
fabric will be facing up). Scrunch the unpinned side of body fabric together and
bring the other side of the cuff fabric over to make a tube. Pin this and take to
sewing machine to stitch.

Pull the fabric out of the tube and you are ready to assemble the sides of the
pillowcase using a French seam. With WRONG sides together stitch the open
sides of the pillowcase using a 1/4th” seam. Then turn the pillowcase wrong side
out and stitch around the pillowcase again this time using a 3/8” seam. Turn the
pillowcase inside out, press and you are FINISHED!!!

This pattern will make one standard size pillowcase approximately 32 x 20”.

Queen finished size is 30” and King is 36”.

Fabric Postcards

Michelle Dorsey — 2007-08-25T12:41:44-05:00

Supplies For Fabric Postcards

Coordinating scrap fabrics (one at least 6” square)
Pelltex or Timtex (6” square)
Muslin scrap (6” square)
Embroidery thread
Empty bobbin
Cutaway stabilizer
Sticky stabilizer
KK2000 or adhesive spray
Fray Check (optional)
Normal sewing notions

This project is neat because you can be as creative as you want to be
making the front of the postcard. You can use as many different
fabrics by piecing them as you would a quilt top. Or you many also
use just one fabric and embellish it with embroidery.

I used two different fabrics on the postcard sample. I cut the denim
fabric 4 x 4 1⁄2. Then cut 2 strips of the pink fabric 4 x 1 1⁄4. Stitch the
strips to the ends of the denim fabric using 1⁄4 seam and press when
finished.

Attach a piece of cutaway stabilizer to the back of the fabric you just
stitched together by spraying the stabilizer with KK2000. Find your
center of the piece of material and mark your cross hairs. Then hoop
your sticky stabilizer and lay the fabric piece on top and stitch the
embroidery design. I also floated another piece of cutaway under the
hoop for added support.

While your embroidery is stitching cut your muslin (4 x 6) and your
Timtex or Pelltex (3 3⁄4 x 5 3⁄4).

After the embroidery on the front of the postcard is complete then
unhoop and set aside. It is time to work on the back of the postcard.
Using your muslin piece, attach another piece of cutaway to it the
same way you did the front using the KK2000. Find the center of the
muslin and mark your cross hairs and put it in the hoop and take to
the machine. This will stitch out the back of the postcard where the
address and stamp goes.

After all the embroidery is complete unhoop all pieces and take to the
mat and square up each piece making sure they are both the same
size. Attach the Timtex or Pelltex to the wrong side of the front of the
postcard using KK2000. Then attach the muslin back the same way.

Take the project to the sewing machine and (using a buttonhole or zig
zag stitch) sew around the outside of the postcard to secure all layers
together. Make sure you use matching bobbin thread.

I am told this takes a regular $.39 stamp. I use a Micron (colored
fabric marking pen) to mark the address and message on the back.

This would be a wonderful way to send a Valentine or Easter card to
someone special.

Enjoy!!

Cosmetic Bag

Michelle Dorsey — 2007-08-25T12:33:52-05:00

Supplies For Cosmetic Bag

1⁄2 yard denim, canvas or like material
1⁄2 yard coordinating cotton material for lining
1⁄2 yd craft bond interfacing (iron on)
Teflon pressing sheet
12” zipper
Matching thread or invisible thread
Embroidery design of your choosing to put on bag
Embroidery threads
Clothsetter
Normal sewing notions

Cut out pattern from the denim/canvas material (with notches). On
the straight ends of each side fold material down 1⁄2”and stitch with
matching or invisible thread.

****For this project you really need to limit your design to a 4 x 4 size or smaller
otherwise it might be too big once the bag is all put together.

Then prepare your material for embroidery by marking your cross
hairs on one side of the fabric. (Of course you could embroidery on
both sides if you wish) Fold the material in half (length wise) and
match up the notches. Mark your center using the notch on the side
as your guide for placement of cross hairs.
Hoop your “A” hoop with sticky stabilizer and stitch design. You may
want to float a piece of tearaway or cutaway under it if the design is
dense.

Cut a piece of material slightly bigger than the pattern out of the
lining material. Fuse a piece of stabilizer to the wrong side of this
piece. Then cut pattern out of the fused pieces. Fold material 1⁄2” on
the straight end and stitch as you did before. Attach the two pieces of
material wrong sides together. Stitch all around the outside (using a
1⁄4” seam) leaving the each of the ends unsewn.

Now time for the zipper...

You will need to shorten your zipper to fit the bag. To do so close the
zipper and measure from the tab down making the zipper about 1⁄4”
shorter than the length of the bag. Use your zigzag stitch to overcast
the teeth and then cut off the excess. Measure against bag to make
sure it fits correctly before you cut it!!

Pin the closed zipper between the edges of the bag and lining (zipper
face up). Using zipper foot, stitch close to pressed edge being sure to
catch in bag lining. Turn the bag inside out and open the zipper and
stitch the other side in the same manner. (Zipper will be face down
now)

Make the ends meet and stitch closed with a 1⁄2” seam. Then meet the
notches and stitch the sides. Turn the bag inside out and you’re
done!!

Enjoy!!